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April 21, 2007 11:09 PM

Adventures in Siberia

IRKUTSK, RUSSIA - Within 30 seconds of boarding the train in Ulaanbaatar, I was at it again. For the second time in 3-days I was fighting for my valuables.

I should have been a very quick grab and run for him. I'd just dropped all my luggag on my berth on the train and had cleared out to let the others organize their things. I wandered a metre or two down the hall, gazed out the window for a moment, then turned back to my cabin. There I was, standing directly behind a short and fat-ish man with a perfect view of his arm elbow deep in my day bag. I watched for a few more seconds, just to be sure he wasn't digging through my stuff by accident.

Then it was on. I'm not sure what proper protocol is, but I grabbed him with both hands and shook him free of my luggage. It worked well. In the end he got away and only really fought back when I tried to drag him out of the train. Ultimately abandoned that strategy and let him go as I'm not really good at violence and it would have meant me leaving my luggage unattended.

The whole ordeal sort of made me a hero on the train as people retold the story and pointed in my direction in every language but English. Before long, I was being force fed bread, colbasa and other strange meats along with tea by nearly everyone who could get near me. They shared their shower shoes with me and suggested I carry a 'fanny-pack' to protect my stuff (both part of the standard Russian train uniform).

It wasn't long before I was deeply involved with a cheap clothing smuggling ring. In my role as accomplice I stuffed a bunch of tacky jeans into my own luggage for the border crossing. I know, it seems like a terrible idea - it probably was. But I had no real choice after spending the day eating and drinking in a cramped cabin with an Uzbek trader, a Buryat Russian, and Mongol business man. We were all in on it.

In a fit of classic Russian bureaucracy it took 10 hours to cross the border. In that time the Russian soldiers and border guards searched and hassled my travelling merchant friends endlessly while leaving me alone. Once on the Russian side, I returned the contraband jeans and we all shared another pile of sandwiches.

After travelling through the semi-independent Buryatic Republic by night, I've arrived in the biggest town and regional centre of Siberia: Irkustk. There doesn't seem to be much going on as there are only two of us in our Hostel but the snow is mostly melted and I'm in Siberia! Time to explore a little...


Comments


Russian Radio said:

You've got the sense of adventure! That's good.

April 22, 2007 03:46 AM
Berns said:

I am so glad you jumped that guy...no traveller likes to get their things stollen...most people never know it's happened till later.. You are right, violence is not the answer but it sure feels good to get the bad guy!!

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