July 28, 2006

The Gold Coast

GOLD COAST, AUSTRALIA - We found this guy at a law school function for Bond University here on the Gold Coast, about an hour south of Brisbane. I'm pretty sure he's a student.

I've traded in my beard, stopped showering with salt water, and haven't peed into a bucket in days. Now I do respectable things; like attend law school functions. Don't get me wong, it's great fun.

Tomorrow though, it's back to the boat and back out to sea. The broken bits have been fixed and we're headed further South, towards Sydney.

July 25, 2006

Arrived in Australia

BRISBANE, AUSTRALIA - Two days ago we limped into Australia, broken, a little bruised, but not beaten; certainly not beaten. The fact that I've made it here represents a big milestone for me. Since sailing out of Panama 3 1/2 months ago, I've managed to cross the worlds biggest Ocean, logging 8400 NM (15,000km) in the process. I've visited 5 different countries and 9 Pacific islands, most of which I'd never heard of a year ago. I've seen more sunrises during this crossing than I'd seen in my lifetime.

This last leg has been agonizingly slow for us. To take 7 days to sail 700 NM from New Caledonia to Australia is agonizingly slow for a boat that managed to sail the entire Atlantic Ocean in less than 18 days. The reason for such a slow crossing had to do almost entirely with the fact that our rig nearly fell over when the port shroud broke in some heavy seas. Thanks to an emergency tack and a quick bit of jury rigging we were able to keep the mast from toppling into the sea. The real pain, the agonizing bit, was that we no longer could sail the boat with the wind blowing across the port side. We spent an entire 24 hour period drifting backwards, albeit slowly thanks to our sea anchor (an underwater parachute), waiting for the wind to change.

In any case, we made it. I'm here in Australia.

July 14, 2006

Comment Spam

NOUMEA, NEW CALEDONIA - I'm getting swamped. The old entries on this site are being flooded with comment spam. There are literally thousands of junk comments. The trouble is, I have to read each and every one of them to determine if they're fake or not. With the time involved I simply can't afford to do this at Internet cafés. I've spent 1500 francs (15 USD) today alone deleting them.

I see two options: First, I could require each commenter to log in. I don't like it either, but I don't know what else to do. Let me know what you think; would you create a log in and sign in every time to leave a comment? If you don't like it, let me know.

The other option is for a trustworthy person with a reliable Internet and a little time on their hands to volunteer to help me filter the comments. Once under control it'd only take a few minutes every couple days.... anybody?

July 13, 2006

New Caledonia - Bastille Day

NOUMEA, NEW CALEDONIA - Our guide book calls this place "The Paris of The Pacific", but, in my opinion it more closely resembles "The Apartide of The Pacific". The local natives (Kanaks) have been trying, unsuccessfully and sometimes violently, for independence from France for many years now. The reality is that the territory is resource rich and France won't give it away without a fight. In fact this morning, as part of the French national holiday, Bastille Day, we took in a genuine French Military parade (pictured above) complete with tanks and attack helicopters. It's sole purpose seeming to be to remind the Kanaks who's the boss in these parts. It was quite a spectacle.

In any case, we made it. Another leg done and another 1200 NM (2200 km) closer to having crossed the Pacific. Of course we landed just as the Bastille Day long weekend was starting. In strict observance of Murphy's Law, we always arrive in a new port when it's most inconvenient for us to re provision. It's alright, We're happy to spend some time here before sailing the last leg to Australia.

The German backpacker we picked up to replace Richard was to help us sail the leg from Tonga to New Caledonia. He turned out to be a dud. The fact that he was seasick for the entire voyage made him unable to help with any chores or watches along the way. I feel bad that his experience was so miserable I wouldn't wish that kind of seasickness on anybody. Upon arrival, he scurried ashore as faster than I thought possible and hasn't been heard from since. Sailing isn't for everybody. We're now only half looking for a new crew member; one that won't puke every few minutes. If we haven't found one in a weeks time, sailing short handed is no big deal.

For now my goal is to try to see some sights, practice my french and try to buy a pair of long pants. It seems that my best, and only, pair of jeans vanished somewhere between Tahiti and here. We are far enough South and deep enough into the Southern Winter that this has become a priority.

July 02, 2006

Tongan Feasts

VAVA'U, KINGDOM OF TONGA - Our youngest, and perhaps most competent crew member, Richard, has just received some tragic news from home and will be leaving our boat for home as soon as possible. We'll definitely be missing Rich as I feel like the four of us worked well and got on great. Our foursome is now three. We may pick up another crew member, or simply continue with the three of us. Take care, Rich, we'll catch up with you in Oz.

We've been here a couple days now and I've had a chance to learn a little about this strange little island:

It's the first country in the world to usher in the new day due to the fact that the international date line bends around them. Geographically they are East of where the date line should be but for whatever reason they've chosen to act as though they're on the Australian side of the line.

The country is not a republic, but rather an actual kingdom just like England in the 1400's. Tomorrow is the Kings birthday and from what I can tell, it'll be a big celebration.

It's one of the few places in the world that was never colonized by a European power and for this reason they still have a very unique culture; The men wear skirts (though I'm sure they're called something different), the heavier a woman is the more beautiful she is considered.

Within two days of our arrival, we'd been invited to a 'Togan Feast' with a local family. We spent the evening sitting on the floor, eating piles and piles of food and drinking kava, a sort of alcoholic drink made from a root; it numbs your tongue and makes you feel 'euphoric'. They actually chew it to break it down before mixing it into a drink. A practice that I wouldn't usually go in for at home, but if everybody's doing it, who am I to say refuse.

There's also a lively ex-pat culture here, they spend most of they're time in a couple small bars down by the water, drinking and being merry. We've joined in for some fun times and are quickly making friends and becoming regulars. In just 3 days, I feel like I know most people in this village.

As soon as we get a weather window, we'll be heading West again. Now sure if a stop in Fiji is in the cards or not.

*I've got some photos of the feast and Tonga in General but the conection here is too slow to get them up.