« Ometepe Bound | Main | Puerto Viejo »
March 6, 2006 01:34 PM
The Land Before Time
ISLA DE OMETEPE, NICARAGUA - I woke up this morning with a fearsome volcano staring down at me and realized that Nicaragua, of all the places we've visited, most resembles that old Disney cartoon The Land Before Time. Immediately upon crossing into Nicaragua our horizon became filled with steaming peaks and we've yet to find a vantage point that doesn't include a volcano as it's chief point of reference.
This island, Ometepe is about as exotic a place as I've visited. There are dramatic views from the mainland of it's two magical volcanoes rising steeply from the waters of Lago de Nicaragua. The peaks are bare of vegetation due to recent volcanic activity and almost always appear to have snagged a piece of cloud that has long since passed. From crater lakes to lush cloud forests filled to the brim with exotic birds, monkeys and treacherous snakes the island is a must see for anyone travelling to Nicaragua.
The surrounding waters are equally fascinating. Lago de Nicaragua is the tenth largest body of fresh water in the world. They say it was once part of the Ocean until volcanic eruptions and earthquakes created the Pacific plain that has been both a blessing and a curse while cycling (flat but hot). The part that excites me is the marine life in the lake itself. Over millennia the lake water gradually lost it's salinity, while the saltwater fish trapped in it evolved into some of the most unusual types of fish found anywhere on earth, including freshwater tarpon, swordfish and bull sharks. Imagine that. Freshwater sharks.
Our plan is to catch an overnight ferry (10hrs) tonight to the Rio San Juan, which forms the border with Costa Rica. We're not sure when it leaves as everybody we ask gives a different time and it can often be an unpleasant ride as the lake isn't very deep (60m). It's waters are notoriously rough. If the ferry doesn't go, it won't be the first time we've been stranded on an island this trip, if it does go, we'll be crossing into a remote part of Costa Rica sometime tomorrow morning. Either way, it'll be an adventure.
Comments
Carmel,
You're right on. We met up with Lewis first in Guanajuato, MX and then again in San Juan Del Sur, way down in Niciragua.
We just parted ways this morning after an all night ferry ride on the wild waters of Lago de Nicaragua. There was a spray in our faces, rum and stories of lost love. Well...maybe not, but there should have been; We slept and ate cheese sandwiches.
We made it to Costa Rica... he's not far behind.
Hey mate, I swear the guy in the photo from your 'Ompetepe Bound' entry is Lewis, a dj who played in San Pedro? Or have all those 2 for 1 mojitos clouded my judgement?