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January 27, 2006 05:15 PM

Down and out in Tegucigalpa

Now I'm hiding in Honduras
I'm a desperate man
Send lawyers, guns and money
The shit has hit the fan.

-Warren Zevon

It's been more than a couple days since I've posted. I can explain. We've been into some serious adventure. Well, mis-adventure; but as far as I can tell both words mean the same thing; that is, all adventure is actually mis-adventure. If you remember, my memory for hardship is short. This episode is already being filed away in my mind as an experience rather than ordeal. It all cumulated in an unplanned trip to the Canadian Embassy in Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras and a couple visits to the local police. The first visit being a bust because they didnĀ“t have paper... or a typewriter (we needed a report). No paper, just guns on a desk.

We left El Salvador without a hitch. The night spent in lockdown on the border at the old slaughterhouse recently converted into a hotel (the meat hooks on the wall were a dead giveaway) for wayward travellers like us was much nicer than the hotel from the previous night which, judging by the signage in the rooms was much more accustomed to renting rooms by the hour. Either way, it didn't matter, as long as there was a place to rest my head that was out of the sun I was content. I'd been enduring nearly two weeks of heaches, diareaha, fever and occasional puking. Cycling nearly 100km each day in more than 40 degrees of heat wasn't helping my condition and wasn't making for much fun either. Still, it was better for each new day to have a different horizon; The world is big and I didn't want to spend any more time than was necessary sweating it out in some crappy hotel. No we were headed for the promised land.

Honduras was to be a 300km speed bump on our way to better and badder countries, for our sights were firmly set on Nicaragua. The city of Leon was to be our shining palace at the end of the yellow brick road, our pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. But alas, the mirage at the edge of the desert will remain just out of reach for the time being. 2 days; We were a mere two days from Leon. I could actually see Nicaragua.

It was one of those days where your head hurts to much to bother moving it. Had I moved it a little more, or even been a little more involved in my surroundings I may have realized that at some point during the day I was no longer carrying the pouch with my wallet, passport and camera in it. Had I not resigned myself to simply exist and wait for the next day to come I may actually been able to cross the border into Nicaragua.

We made it to the border, but couldn't cross. There was one sympathetic immigration official who offered to 'talk to somebody higher up' to arrange to have us smuggled over the Rio Negro by night. It would have been exciting, but I'm certain none of our mothers would have approved. We politely declined.

I've spent the last 3 days talking my way through security checkpoints sans identification (surprisingly easy if you have the right colour skin) and getting to the capital in order to jump through all the hoops that one needs to jump through to have a passport issued in Tegucigalpa without the benefit of proof of citiziship or a guarantor. Now all I have to do is way 10-12 working days....

Yes, I'm again without a camera. Maybe I'll start drawing pictures. I think somebody suggested it earlier.

Tick, Tock....


matt said:

stay strong boys. lots of love.

January 27, 2006 07:08 PM
Berns said:

Pictures are great but memory is better.
Keep your spirits up boys!

January 28, 2006 09:31 AM
Don said:

Ryan, forgetting his wallet (or any form of i.d.) for that matter... I fail to believe it, he's never done that before...

Good luck with the embassy...

Be Safe.

January 28, 2006 11:35 AM
Woodie Guthrie said:

I reckon yur best bet is to just get rid of all yur possessions so they've gots nuthin' to steal.
Chin up, take the good with the bad and keep on keepin on. Mejor suerte en Nicaragua.

January 28, 2006 12:13 PM
Dennys said:

Hey Ryan,

Remember me...your old boss? My father-in-law is down in Nicaragua visiting family right now until the end of this week. If you happen to be in Managua let me know and I'll see what I can do to get you a free meal and maybe a place to stay for the night.

All the best...keep safe.

Let me know.


January 29, 2006 12:32 PM
Andrew McLean said:

At least you're not sitting in a stinking cubicle.

January 29, 2006 05:47 PM
Ray said:

Hey Ryan,

i will be the first in line to buy your book when this is all over. Take care

January 31, 2006 01:59 PM